A different sort of Sunday paper-reading…

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A nice STRONG cup of tea, some marmite on toast and a perfectly soft boiled egg and a leisurely read of the papers.  Only, it’s the Spring Summer 2008 Acne Paper I’m reading.  I must say that label-produced magazines can be iffy territory.  Where does the advertorial end and the editorial begin…  However, if you’re a regular Acne Paper reader, it’s a completely different kettle of fish, packed full of rich content and somehow hard to get hold of in the UK despite a long list of stockists.  You can buy it online but I picked mine up for free in Hyeres.  I mean there are some hefty and arraying reads here… Howard Shore’s music scores for LOTR, a profile on German actor Udo Kier, an article dedicated to tea, more accusations of ‘exoticising’ Africans by British colonialists/imperialists in an interview with Helen Mears and a wicked article by Nicola Formichetti about his journey in fashion…. never mind the first cuppa, you could easily get through three or four cups reading the whole thing. 

Fashion photography wise, ‘Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep?’ (a title bearing not that much relevance to the photos but nonetheless has a nice rin…) photographed by Anthony Maule and styled by Marie Chaix has got me all excited all over again about SS08 Givenchy giant rivets, a fantastic Philip Treacy hat that doesn’t seem to want to end and again that Acne caged skirt that has still eluded me (please…does this item actually exist in Stockholm?)…

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Something of the Orient…

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It’s been a while since I’ve taken more than 30 minutes to really read an issue of UK Vogue and even the boyf commented that I was studying the new UK Vogue June issue for an abnormally long amount of time.  However, the main draw for me was the ‘Orient Excess’ editorial photographed by Javier Vallhonrat and styled by Lucinder Chambers as it a) features an old favourite of mine Elise Crombez who looks so radically/refreshingly different here and b) is accompanied and really SHOULD be viewed in tandem with a really insightful article by Rana Kabbani who dispells the Western notion of an Ottoman harem by recounting the tales of her own grandmother’s REAL harem life in Damascus.  Ultimately it criticises the way in which Western artists portray Orientalist life, to be fully demonstrated at the upcoming Tate Britain ‘The Lure of the East’ exhibition.  Kabbani has expanded on this cultural misrepresentation in ‘Imperial Fictions’ which definitely follows the Edward Said ‘Orientalism’ school of thought in that the Orient has been romanticised and misrepresented (people who like to bring up this book when criticisng me for using the word ‘Oriental’ should know that I have read this book numerous times and once again without sounding like an ol’ broken record…it’s a UK/US difference that you might not be aware of!).

The women that the paintings have portrayed as being passive, still and as exotic as possible is sort of overturned in the editorial though where I think the photographer has taken note of what Kabbani had to say about the lack of human feeling in those old paintings by Occidents.  The ‘noisy, active, ferocious, brave, hard-working, opinionated and fun’ behaviour that Kabbani witnessed in the harem women of her grandmother’s generation has translated well to Elise Crombrez looking far more complex than what those paintings suggest as someone who has struggled (cue sweaty hair…) and basically given harem depiction an ‘edge’.  Anyway, a good little read that kept me more or less occupied on the traffic-laden bus ride and of course, the editorial speaks for itself… 

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Borrowing from the Boyf

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In the past few seasons, I’m sure everyone has noticed that there’s been a very noticeable and deliberate ‘boyfriend’ branding in womenswear.  Apparently, we all need the perfect ‘boyfriend blazer, the ‘boyfriend trousers’, ‘the boyfriend sweater’ or the ‘boyfriend oversized shirt’.  Be it a genuine taste for masculine looks or just wanting to feel relaxed in looser clothes, a bit of the ‘boyf’s’ looser cutting is what a lot of women try to acquire or achieve.  Penny pincher that I am though, if I’m busy buying clothes for femmes i.e. my ruffles, my florals and my frou frou, why not just nick some of the REAL boyf’s clothes to get that loose fit.  As the pile of ‘boyf staying over at my pad’ clothes grows and grows, more often than not I get tempted to just nick his clothes, especially since he’s more of a selective/picky clothes buyer and ends up getting some really nice things.  Furthermore even if the boyf is bigger than me, he prefers things quite fitted so the bagginess level is just about right for me.

Note, these are just the things I found lying around in my apartment.  Haven’t even  been let loose with his wardrobe back at his place… I’m thinking he’s either going to be bemused or annoyed…

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Unconditional t-shirt, Sisley grey pinstripe trousers, COS black studded belt, People’s Market tuxedo jacket

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Omar Kashoura black deconstructed cardigan, COS black jeans, COS grey cardigan worn as skirt

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J Lindeberg black trenchcoat, COS black and white checked shirt worn as skirt // Vintage checked hoodie, APC jeans, COS black studded belt 

Brideshead Revisited

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SATC movie premiering in London blah blah blah a gazillion designers featured in the film yadda yadda yadda… frankly I’m thinking my big fashion film fix is going to be in the form of the new film version of Brideshead Revisited by Julian Jarrold.   It’s a book that seriously cannot be cocked up (yes big Evelyn Waugh obsessive here…) and the first few stills are already looking very sumptuous indeed…

Emma Thompson as Lady Marchmain 

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Ben Whishaw as Sebastian Flyte

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Hayley Atwell as Julia Flyte

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