Invisible Lines

I didn't round-up the 2010 Central Saint Martins MA show as I did it for Dazed and didn't want to repeat myself.  Instead though, I've got my eye on the students which I personally like, waiting with baited breath to see what they will do next because of course, the MA show always turns out stars.  That said, it was a noticeably subdued crop of graduates where their collections attempted to speak volumes without ostentation.  One that did it the best was Jackie JS Lee who won the Harrods Award jointly with Lilly Heine.  No website as yet but I know for a fact that Jackie JS Lee has plans to launch her own line under that very name and I love that she has given fresh perspective to her graduate collection with these look book images shot by RAMA and styled by Kevin Kim. 

It may be hard to discern from the images here as it takes a bit of feeling but first invisible point, it's all entirely made of double faced jersey which is probably the most luxurious use of jersey I've seen in a while as the double-faced quality gives it a feeling of weight as well as structure where it normally has none.  Second invisible point – lines of collars, seams, cuffs, waistbands and shirt lines are added to the garments by hand stitching which means those things don't actually exist but are given the illusion of existence through the raised appearance of the stitches.  Third point which is visible are the collars which stop and end abruptly by being stitched in.  It's sort of hard to explain until you look at the close-ups. 

Jackie JS Lee didn't necessarily make a LOUD noise with her collection but it excels at an impeccably clean aesthetic that few London-based designers specialise in.  There's a quiet yet strong voice within Lee and me thinks it won't be long before she'll have the platform to broadcast her invisible lines…












21 Replies to “Invisible Lines”

  1. This is quite nice, the lines are so clean. These looks really remind me of 90’s minimalism, particularly the more form fitting pieces.

  2. I love that near enough every one of your posts broadens my inner designer database, and this is no exception. I neeeed something of equal drapiness (it’s sunday morning, to i really need to explain) in my life.
    And OHHH MY GOSH, congratulations on the Vogue feature!

  3. hi susie, i’m pretty young in fashion. could you please explain to me what double-faced jersey means? i would love to learn. thanks.

  4. Quite ethereal and sort of Ralph Lauren but not really, I think it is the cleanness coupled with precise cutting and details that reminds me of that high end up town look. Gorgeous colour choices.
    BTW great Vogue feature and also the Guardian vintage booklet – I nearly wept at the Valentino mac. I was too slow!!

  5. Perfection from the presentation to the actual pieces, the fabrics look incredible. Jil Sander while it was still under Jil kind of perfection.

  6. Wow, these designs and the craftsmanship are seamless. J’adore the colours, so subtle and feminine, gives a certain sense of maturity. Loved it, loved it.

  7. Like fabric from the future… AND the washed out overexposed light aesthetic of the photos is both ethereal and ultra-real — a sensual virtual reality. Totally Stendhal Syndrome territory.

  8. Lown: Double faced means that the fabric can be used on either side of it…. you know sometimes fabric has a rough side and a ‘neater’ side, well double-faced means that either side can be used…

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