Biking Around

I have much to learn by way of street wear.  No amount of surfing on Hypebeast or High Snobiety is going to better educate me.  Worse yet, if I find myself on one of those obsessive street wear forums that starts discussing the differences between a fake Ice Cream BBC top and a real one, I find myself getting even more confuzzled.  Still, I have no intention to jump into those murky waters.  

I'm just glad to see that there's a happy medium where a designer like Julien David can make me enthusiastic for all things street wear and I can nod excitedly whilst still not understanding a single thing.  Kind of like a dumb teenaged girl trying to impress a prospective boyf.

Julien David, who is French-born but worked for Narciso Rodriguez and Ralph Lauren in New York for a bit, got enlightened in Japan and since 2007 has embarked on his own line with a tentative foot.  First it was a set of pill-popping, sneaker-lovin, bandana-pattern scarves in a fine silk twill that David manufactures in a factory in Japan and then it was a set of black coats that I still think would be winter coat 2010 material.  Now he has taken the leap into a full collection for S/S 11 which I discovered on behalf of Dazed Digital where his admiration of street wear even had me saying "Yes!" to the list of brands that he thought worthy/equal to say a French fashion house…

"Nowadays, it's quite amazing to see how sophisticated and thought out streetwear items are; I can spend as much time looking at a down-jacket from a street brand than at a beaded intricate piece from the most classic fashion house. I would like luxury items to stop looking so conservative; even though we can see some amazing things, I believe most people who spend a large amount of money on high end clothing are still very contrived by the general offering and by what is commonly accepted. I am interested in challenging the perception of what a luxury product is, and referencing streetwear is for me a nice way to initiate this dialogue."

In a less knowledgeable way, I guess I share the same sentiment.  I may not know the ins and outs of brands that he cites as faves such as New Era, Supreme, Undefeated, Alife, Visvim etc… but I feel like the attention to detail, branding and aesthetic is worthy of commendation.  When the aesthetics of this genre is mixed with David's intuition for what we know as 'high-end' fashion, it becomes an even more potent mix, demonstrated in this collection inspired by BMX bikes.  The loose silhouette that has dominated S/S 11 gets a new spin here with the influence of biking gear (loose shorts, oversized shirts, helmets) and outdoor parkas and cagoules.  Touches like drawstring pulleys and the actual fabrication of everything doesn't feel like David has 'loosely' been influenced by streetstyle but instead he takes the genre seriously and gently elevates it with for instance, immaculate tailoring seen in the cut-out shirts or a boxy shoulder low double breasted coat and jacket or the drop crotch in a trouser that is just so and not sublimely ridiculous.  The BMX of course makes its way into the collection quite literally in tyre treadmarks over shirts or printed on scarves and shirts as a motif. 

If I'm going to tread gently into the realms of street wear then Julien David's collection is the point where I wouldn't mind stopping at, without going beyond.  Hopefully he won't mind terribly if I don't delve any further.  Afterall, I'm just the dumb chick who likes pretty clothes.  In all seriousness though, the unexpected genre mix renders this collection right up my alley and as someone who loves that XXL proportion and doesn't mind being swamped in clothes (and I'm sure there are others out there too…), David has hit a fresh chord me thinks with this collection. 


A closer look at the tailoring up close reveals that the lines of the shoulder mirror the hexagonal shapes in the 'cage' helmets (which are actually made out of strands of human hair bonded together to make a fibrous wood like material…)

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Shirty capes galore for those that like making wild arm gestures…



Touches such as yer average velcro surf wallet made up in bright pink and blue ostrich leather as well as ostrich leather shin pads and tongues that go over trainers all help the 'elevated street wear' cause that David is so passion about…




17 Replies to “Biking Around”

  1. I really like the geometric hats but other than that – the actual clothes… I really don’t like the XXL sizing all mixed up into single outfits – it makes the model look really boxy.

  2. Love the ostrich wallet!
    Sarah of Steel City Street Style:

  3. Susie, heard you speak at the first IFB conference in February and just recently signed up for your RSS and I am so glad I did. This designer is absolutely A-M-A-Z-I-N-G, thank you for introducing his work here!!!
    FYI, I’m a 57 yr old designer/trendwatcher who really missed the great Indie designers I grew up with in the 1960s. Because of bloggers like you, my closet now has its groove back!
    Keep up the GREAT work!

  4. This designer is absolutely Fabelous i feel really very thankfull to him for giving such a lovely stuffs!!! keep up ur hard work!!!All the best for ur upcoming project!!!!Those helmets are stunning!!!!

  5. Not really my look, but I can see it working for someone else. The model does a great job looking sleepy! And love the hats.

  6. “Probably the worst investment I did was f*ckin’ with R. Kelly,” Baby said in a February 2010 interview. “That was a waste of my time. I could’ve made money if I wasn’t f*ckin’ with that clown-a** n*gga.”

  7. If you are a fan you should check out this place I found it on Pinterest and it’s so cool. They make gorgeous custom-made beach cruisers! You can even design your own on the site. Honestly, you don’t even have to be “active” to love these… they are just amazing!

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