Feeling the Gauge


On the first day of London Fashion Week for the past two seasons, you might have seen me storming around the exhibition stands like a bedraggled bag lady, laden with a cherry hat on my head, a gaggle of necklaces around my neck and a ton of hangers.  That's me picking out pieces from the exhibitions to put together outfits for every issue of LFW Daily in a bid to talk up the designers that have stands at the now ever-sprawling space of Somerset House.  

Lucas Nascimento struck me straight away despite having a rail that was sort of tucked away by a staircase.  I vaguely remembed he had shown his last collection in Rio in Brazil and could recall thinking to myself "This guy is one to watch….".  It was a surprise to learn that Nascimento has in fact always been based in London and now he's making a go of it here properly by presenting his S/S 12 collection at London Fashion Week.   

Eagle eye precise knitwear with a subtle sensitivity for palette and texture has sort of been deserted since the likes of Louise Goldin departed London for New York (and is now supposedly working for Kanye West).  Lucas Nascimento therefore conveniently swoops in to make his mark at a time when level-headed and slick maturity is rampant (J J.S. Lee, Palmer Harding, Simone Rocha, Thomas Tait…. all from the same graduating MA year of Central Saint Martins incidentally).  

There's nothing stark about Nascimento's knitwear though that speaks volume through the techniques of creating his own textiles that are a feat in their own right.  For S/S 12, the painter Agnes Martin provides the textural inspiration as the appearance of a woven texture spurs Nascimento into experimenting with a cord weaving technique that looks immaculately reined in when tailored into swing jackets, peplums, trousers and simple dresses.  The yarn that loops over the layers of cord is something that Nascimento first experimented with to differentiate the spacing and as a result there are many swatches where the pattern is shifted ever so slightly.  The different colour combinations also has wildly different effects on the final textile and it's Nascimento's confident use of colour colour throughout the whole collection that really grabs your attention.  








This jacquard pattern is meant to give the appearance of a loose woven textile and again has undergone a few swatch experimentations to get to the final pattern.  I love the very neat and tidy effect of the ultra thin collar and the buttoned-up sweater that also dips down at the back, a shape that Nascimento employs repeatedly in the collection.  He also cuts out sweaters in the front to present the cropped cardi as a layering option, something that Nascimento is hugely fond of – that sort of thing has my name written all over it.





A roughened cotton yarn that has white mixed in with a colour creates a very fine gauge knit that also a very chalky appearance.  When made up into colour blocked trousers and shirts with collars, you wouldn't look at the piece and instantly think of "knitwear" and Nascimento is constantly challenging the conventions of knitwear with his use of tailoring.  Apparently he has a machine in his studio which is capable of veeeeeery fine gauge knits, handy for doing samples in this country before production in Italy takes over… don't ask me for the technical information but the machine certainly looked like a fine specimen.  









Stretchy striped tops complete the textural gamut for S/S 12 and also means Nascimento can provide anything from interesting basics to more complex pieces making his prices fairly reasonable too for work of this quality.  




24 Replies to “Feeling the Gauge”

  1. I’ve been seriously obsessed with his work ever since I spotted a girl wearing his designs at LFW. I didn’t know who they were by until you clued me in on Twitter. Love seeing the pieces up close next to the look book images. Seriously excited that he’ll be showing at LFW this year. Can’t wait to see what’s in store for next season. xx

  2. Lovely to see you outside Peter Jensen the other day Susie! I really liked this look you did at fashion week 🙂 thought the top was all one! Like the colours xxx

  3. Very colorful pieces here, I really like this kind of industrial clothing done for ready-to-wear !!

  4. Reaaallly puristic..! Ithink its toooo plain….And the material…what’s that…? tell me..!

  5. u inspire me susie x x x

  6. I love the different textures and patterns! There are so many tiny details that make the pieces more unique. Thank you for sharing!

  7. The colors, the fabric are incridibles. that’s remind me Cardin and Courrege… these design come from the “down aging” trends
    _Mr SLEEK_

  8. This is a very polished collection. I appreciate the cut of the pieces and the design is understated yet effective in its visual impact. Very nice.

  9. i love this post,waiting for you update your blog soon,see you later,haha

  10. Hey,I come back and nice to see your new article,It’s great! Thanks for all your efforts that you have put in this. i like you blog post,It take me many idea,Now say thanks and i will come back in next time to you!

  11. Hi,
    Very wonderful collection you have. your all winter clothes are so hot and so beautiful. Relay i love this post and i love also your all collections. totally i say Very colorful pieces here

  12. European capitals are more deficient in exhibitions or entertainments of this nature. There is says:

    European capitals are more deficient in exhibitions or entertainments of this nature. There is

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