Volez, Voguez, Voyagez

Volez, Voguez, Voyagez

“Volez, Voguez, Voyagez” is a tongue twister to say if you’re not French, but it does neatly sum up the premise of ’s .  Borrowed from a 1965 advertising poster, the three V’s meaning “Sail, Fly, Travel” – also of course chime in with that all-important V.  And it’s that famed surname, which this exhibition, curated by Olivier Saillard, is centred upon.  Unlike the very progressive and conceptual open-to-interpretation Series 3 exhibition held in London a few months ago, “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez” is very much more of a concrete exhibition to grasp, interact with and take in.  It’s in a space that has hosted many an exhibition before – in fact the decision to use the Grand Palais was based on its construction in 1900 and its holding of the Universal Exhibitions in Paris, where George Vuitton was in charge of the entire section dedicated to “Travel & Leather Goods.”  It has logical sections relating to the various product categories that Louis Vuitton has prided itself on since 1854, like automobile, train and air travel, its relationship with women’s and men’s clothes and literature and art.  It has an audio guide.  The average tourist wandering around off from the Champs Elysee will queue up for this free exhibition and be fascinated regardless of their knowledge of Louis Vuitton.

And yet, because of the curating prowess of Saillard, what could have been an endless parade of trunks, is still a fascinating exhibition for the initiated.  I’ve personally seen/read about quite a few of the exhibiting artefacts, either at Louis Vuitton’s Asnieres-sur-Seine atelier or the Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs exhibition staged at the Les Arts Decoratifs in 2012.  Somehow, Saillard manages to place many of these familiar objects into a renewed context – one where you’re seeing not just the relevance of them as historical artefacts, but also their modernity that manifests itself in newer designs by the house’s current creative directors – Nicolas Ghesquière and Kim Jones.

When seen in tandem with the very , the full picture reveals itself even more.  Alongside factual essays about each section of the exhibition, there are excerpts of fiction purporting to travel as well as beautiful in-detail x-ray photographs of key objects by Katerina Jebb.  In addition to historical context, here lies the more elusive emotive aspect of travel that Saillard is trying to depict.  The excitement of gaining speed aboard new modes of transportation as seen in the sections about aviation, trains and automobiles, especially as women increasingly began to take charge of the steering wheel.  The feeling of discovery of a new destination as seen in journeys like the 1922-1931 Croisière Jauna and the Croisière Noir, orchestrated by Citroën, crossing the Sahara from Algeria to Madagasca and from Beirut to Beijing.  The decadence of carrying dedicated suitcases made just for say, hairbrushes or shoes or volumes of books and a typewriter, that seems wholly unnecessary in today’s age of compact all-in-one devices and kindles, and yet strangely alluring.  The proportions and materials of how we travel today may have changed, but the emotional journey hasn’t.  And for the privileged, some things haven’t shifted at all.

What remains relevant are the rich resources of drawings, receipts, printed paraphernalia as well as the trunks themselves that Saillard has combed through to present a comprehensive dossier where time and time again, you stop and inspect, say a logo, a piece of typography or a certain finishing on a case and see it popping up somewhere in a design element today.  And they do.  Series 3 may have been about Ghesquière’s vision hurtling towards the future but ‘Volez, Voguez, Voyagez’ is about emphasising the maison’s past that still massively underlines what the house stands for today.

, Avenue du Général Eisenhower until 21st February.  Free admission.

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1065_LV_15-12-02_Expo-VVVA portrait of a young Louis Vuitton by artist Yan Pei Ming alongside the 1906 trunk, where all of Louis Vuitton’s recognisable components first came together in one box – perfect proportions, beech wood reinforcements, brass corners and rivets, patent lock and that Monogram canvas exterior

IMG_9615As a thank you to loyal customers, Georges and Gaston-Louis Vuitton would send out small trunks with built in zinc containers to hold a bouquet of flowers

IMG_9624The wooden tools that Gaston-Louis Vuitton would have used to craft his trunks at Asnières

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IMG_9633A 17th century engraving of a “packager’s outfit”

IMG_9635Rounded trunk in grey Trianon canvas crafted in 1860

IMG_9636The new flat top man’s trunk in striped canvas

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1368_LV_15-12-02_Expo-VVVLouis Vuitton trunks over the decades, evolving to accommodate new requirements and needs

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1410_LV_15-12-02_Expo-VVVThe rise of yachting and cruises in the early part of the 20th century and the new wardrobe and packing solutions that came about as a result

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IMG_9662An array of steamer bags

1509_LV_15-12-02_Expo-VVVVoyages further afield into previously unchartered lands with more resilient steamer trunks for explorers, inspiring pieces like the animal printed leather luggage for Wes Anderson’s The Darjeeling Limited

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IMG_9667Trunk bed in Damier canvas with late 19th century aluminium steamer trunks with newer Boîte Promenade from Nicolas Ghesquière’s A/W 15-6 and cruise 16 collections as well as Speedy bags in mirrored vinyl

IMG_9676Louis Vuitton adapting to the age of the motor car as seen in a series of photos by Jacques Henri Lartigue

IMG_9681Driver’s cap

IMG_9682A driver’s fur coat from the 1910s

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IMG_9684Marc Jacobs S/S 13 collection for Louis Vuitton

IMG_9687French flying club from the 1930s

IMG_9693Marc Jacobs’ A/W 2012-3 collection for Louis Vuitton

IMG_9692Labels from various hotels all over the world

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IMG_9695Early 20th century fashions for a night train journey

IMG_9708Monogram library trunk in the Heures D’Absence room, where print, paper and writing is shown to be central to how Louis Vuitton operates

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IMG_9698Stephen Sprouse x Louis Vuitton collaboration from 2001

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IMG_9718Inside the “Ladies” room with luggage once owned by Lauren Bacall and Elizabeth Taylor

IMG_9723A silk dress by Walter Plunkett as worn by Katharine Hepburn

IMG_9721A shoe trunk attributed to Greta Garbo containing Ferragamo shoes

IMG_97221925 Milano fitted vanity suitcase 

IMG_9728The various perfume bottles that Gaston-Louis Vuitton commissioned with art deco designs, as a historic pre-ambler to Louis Vuitton’s forthcoming perfume that they will be releasing next year

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IMG_9744Recreation of Jean Patou’s custom made trunk, once used to transport gowns on a rail on wheels.  

Ready to take off in a cropped bomber jacket and sturdy tropical printed boots from the splendid cruise collection and a City Steamer bag, loosely based on the canvas steamer bags used to stow away dirty laundry onboard a ship…

Susie-Lau

4 comments

Leave a comment
  1. Kangkan Rabha

    2015-12-08 at 3:34 PM

    So inspirational. <3

  2. Dominique

    2015-12-08 at 4:55 PM

    love this!
    xxx

  3. Alice

    2015-12-09 at 2:35 PM

    That is a place full of history. Amazing. It’s a must visit and that’s for everybody, not only for fashion enthusiasts.

  4. Nicholas

    2016-01-20 at 8:14 PM

    Excellent review. The only problem I had with the exhibition was at the opening Karl Lagerfeld babbling as he does about his idea LV traveling in essence that this is a way of life that is no more and will never be the same again. I do not believe that for one moment. I think he needs to confine his opinions on such things to himself and not speak for everyone. The exhibition and the pieces including the magnificent deluxe edition catalog available via Louis Vuitton all simple stunning.

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